The war within. Silent takeover of Haa by Indian Army with RBA as the conduit.

Every time I think of Haa my birth place, the image of IMTRAT an arm of Indian Army clouds my vision. And it has become deeply painful since the GOI interference in 2013 General Election, the cancellation of Southern Bhutan highway construction and Indian Army  invasion last year at Doklam. Wondering about situations  of Bhutan, hereafter.

Haa Dzong itself was handed over to Indian military  to house the headquarter of IMTRAT in early 1960s. A temporary measure that turned to permanent occupation.  However,  most of the area in the periphery had initially remained under the jurisdiction of Haa Dzongkhag Administration. But gradually over the years, more area were surrendered to the Indian Army including large areas of apple orchards and wheat fields which fall under the category of crown properties and also some community lands. The last major surrender was done during the sunset tenure of Gooenlyon Lam Dorji as Chief of Operations of Royal Bhutan Army.  I rue the national decision to register Dha- Chhab- sey Pang and surrounding areas in the name of RBA. The Royal Bhutan Army has become  the conduit of Indian Army takeover of more territories in Haa. The whole  beautiful nature shaped stadium like  Dha-chhab-sey Pang is under Indian Army control.

This beautiful flat stretch of land  along Haa river used to be traditional community recreational and  grazing area  mainly of Wangtsa village and also used for  major national events in Haa Valley including archery tournaments. Thats where the  2nd King HM Jigme Wangchuk , 3rd King as HRH Paro Penlop, Hon'ble  Gongzim Sonam Tobgay and his son as Hon'ble  Haa Drung Jigme Palden Dorji ( later 1st PM of Bhutan  ) played archery match with Haa Paazabs mostly from Wangtsa village. It is part of  immense historic heritage of national joy and celebration.

In the absence of Bhutanese jurisdiction over this Dha-Chhab-Sey Pang area, the otherwise grand National Day of 2017 was celebrated at the complex of Lhakhang Karpo. The Lhakhang complex is alright for regular Tsechu but too inadequate in space for such grand  national event as was the 2017 National Day celebrations. But what to do? Even the presence of two Druk  Kings failed to warrant the use of  the traditional nature designed stadium adorned by the Haa Chu for National Day celebration. Many Haaps ended up at Lhakhang Karpo witnessing national day celebrations on video screens installed behind the Lhakhang. And many more in front of cable tv at homes.    

Maybe the traditional significance did not strike the royal attention. His Majesty the 3rd King had warned me of the generation gap he feared would happen. I a high school student could only submit that then the Crown Prince be also engaged in official duties part time whilst still schooling. That was done.  But Bhutan could never fully bridge the sudden huge vaccum of wisdom and experience left by unexpected early death of the King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. In governance, power is replaceable as Bhutan has done already three times in a short span of 10 years democracy.  Not wisdom and experience.       

The saving grace in Haa is the present fishery farm area known as NjaChu which traditionally belonged to the  Baa- gye-na and Lha-yulkha  villages. It was initially converted to Imtrat Firing Range in the 1960s. But firing range was discontinued  after Deity Chha- na- Dorji was rumoured to have appeared in human form to confront the Imtrat Commandant on one solitary dusky evening during the commandant's  evening walk  and directed him to stop the  firing as it was a disturbance. This saved the ground from further Imtrat advance. Today major part of Ngachu ground is occupied by cold water fishery farm. So it remains in Bhutanese hand. 

Since last few years, I have noticed Imtrat / Dantak carrying out some sort of development work at the DumChho Tse- Kha. Indian Army helicopters on occassions also use it as a helipad. But till now,  it is a common multi- purpose ground for all. The DumChho villagers use it as an recreational area plus ofcourse for grazing.  They also have an archery range  there. Cows still graze in the meadow and during Haa Tsechu, it is   filled with joyful gatherings of many families with luncheon picnics. But I fear that gradually the Indian Army will attempt to takeover this multi purpose recreational area of the  villagers and their cows. And as is the practice,  RBA will claim this beautiful spacious riverside meadow and then surrender the same to the Indian Army control and usage.

I do not protest Imtrat/ Dantak presence in Bhutan for the ways of our Kings and ChhoeChangs are beyond me. But I fear further expansion and consolidation of one foreign power over Druk Yul.

Indian Army seeks exclusivity and unlimitted domain. At one time,  Imtrat attempted to change highway alignment from Dunchho bridge junction to deny througfare to Haa public. That was stopped by housewives of Dunchho village. Then Imtrat went on to construct an Entrance Gate to their establishment to monitor public passage. That too was stopped through community protest. This year after several years of holding  open  seasonal camps for their troops in the community forest hills , the Indian Army starting fenching off permanent troop camps at Wangtsa community water source. Fortunately, RBA intervened after the villagers protested. It turned out that the  Indian Army was acting on their own without any limitation from Royal Bhutan Army and His Majesty the King. The Bhutanese democratic government has no authority over Indian Army doings in Bhutan. And simple villagers think that Indian Army has the King's approval until it became a matter of survival related to water source.

I am just praying that the present Chief of Operations of Bhutan Army would desist the  demand for Dumchho Tsekha land  by the Indian Army. General Batoo Tshering  is not from Haa but has deep respects for Ap Chhundu out of personal experience. Very often in the history of Haa, it has been non-Haap officials who demonstrated genuine concerns for Haa. Dasho Dzongdag Tshering Wangda who hails from Shemgang did more for Haa than all Prime Ministers and Cabinet Ministers from Haa put together. It was unfortunate that Dasho was not even given three years tenure in Haa. I guess central power in Thimphu chickened out under pressure from Indian Army command.

Dasho Dzongdag Sherab Dorji who upgraded  Haa town with better inter road and parking facilities and constructed farm roads long before democracy and Political Party pledges era was from Wangdue. And present Dasho Dzongdag Kinzang Dorji who has brought back cultural and spiritual roles of Haa Dzong Utse, improved residency facilities of the few monks quartered within  the " Imtrat  Dzong " Utse and even managed to install the HM Kupar at the entrance of Imtrat colony is from Paro. My heart melted with pride and joy on December 17th, 2017 when I saw the King's portrait on the huge  board that had displayed for a long time an Indian Army Poster.  Presently, I gather from BBS tv coverage that Dasho Dzongdag is doing his best to promote home-stead tourism in Haa. He has also endeavoured to expand the Summer Festival to promote tourism in Haa. I have  met him once two years ago and found him to be an astute diplomat turned  administrator with a sincere community development heart cushioned in national pride.

There is the need of much more tourism development  activities to carry out at Haa Dzongkhag including opening up all restricted areas to tourist trekking routes. The DNT Party formed royal government must wisely seek Royal support to overcome Indian Army objection against opening more trekking routes in northern hills of Haa Dzongkhag? I guess  a Home Minister with declared  emphasis on religion and culture only,  would not on his own be able to take charge of real home authority versus Indian Army and Indian  Embassy within the Kingdom. Actually apart from Late Dasho Lam Penjor and Prime Minister JYT, no PM or Ministers or Army Chiefs appointed by the King or elected by the people could defend their administrative turf against Indian Army, DANTAK and Indian Embassy. Most were too dearly attached to self befits from their political posts. So now how much leverage of authority the present  Prime Minister and Foreign Minister of Bhutan can  exercise in opening up our own regions to tourism development depends upon how serious the two  are in their campaign pledge of " Narrowing the Gap ".  In this particular case of Haa  the " Gap " is not between rich and poor Bhutanese in Haa but between the authoritarian imposition of Indian Army jurisdiction  and livelihood rights of much deprived Haa people.

I guess they too dare not risk losing their posts midway. However,  the hon'ble Prime Minister Lotay Tshering had sought for just 5 years of political leadership. Perhaps he might just risk it. The Palden Drukpai ChhoChang at times have demonstrated out of box formula to save Bhutan. The Prime Minister  did receive his Druk Thuesey Medal on 17th December, 2017 at Haa in the presence of Miri Phuen- Sum which is known away from Haa as Risum Goenpos or Triple Gem. The power of Triple Gem is real not imagined. I witnessed it during Doklam invasion by Indian Army when I went to Haa to pray to the Miri Phuen Sum and Goen Tsebarme and seek guidance.  

It was Prime Minister Jigme Yoeser Thinlay who pushed for tourism development in Haa. The DPT formed royal government instituted the Haa Summer Festival. It was not to counter the over garish Indian Army annual Mela at Haa.  Summer Festival of Haa is purely a tourism promotion festival highlighting the tradition and culture aspects of Haa and it does reveal true nature of Haa as a simple honest hardworking society. There is no tradition of masters and slaves in Haa. We are equal prideful group of clan who must venture out of Haa to sustain our home families in Haa.

Sumner festival is so much about Haa but  ironically, most officials of Haa origin do not attend the Summer Festival though many including  Prime Minister Tshering Tobgay from Haa give prominence to Imtrat Mela by their continuous presence.  Thus in my opinion, the most gracious high ranking officials of Haa origin  are those who neither helped nor harmed Haaps. Therefore, I do not mourn the dearth of cabinet seat for  Haa this time for reasons of securing tangible benefit for Haa Dzongkhag from such positioned persons from Haa.   But still, I wish a Haap had a cabinet seat in this DNT formed  government. A Minister or Prime Minister from Haa may not be of  help to  Haa Dzongkhag development  but their personal successes are inspirations to the dreams of young generations of Haaps.  From the bottom of my heart, I comprehend the enormity of joy and pride of the Merak Sakteng Community in their 1st Ministership. Congratulations!!!

Haa people like myself feel aggrieved with the expansion and consolidation of Indian Army authority in Haa.  But feel quite  powerless to even express regrets about such. I had to think over so much just to pen this article.  Both RBA and National Land Commission whose cooperation the Indian Army need to extend their domination are under direct authority of His Majesty the King. So we dare not question their actions least these are done under Royal Command. The respect for His Majesty the King is sacrosanct.   But I personally cannot believe that at this wordly stage, our Kings would give preference to Indian Army over rural community and national interests. Thus I decided to make a reference to attract national attention in case a remedy is forthcoming. Hope not penalty. But what to do. Someone among Bhutanese must voice out the national discomfort.

Chhab-Su-Chey!  Chhab-Su- Chey!
Jharo Dongchen Gyalpo dhang Drukpai  ChhoeChang Kenchho  Sum! 
Chhab- Su- Chey! Chhab-Su- Chhey!
Jaagar marmi Jaa lu zhhu!
Jaami marmi Jaa-na zhhu!

Nga-cha-ra Drukpai Mitser  
Dhang-Fu Pha-ma zimpai Gyal-Wangtse ( sovereign dignity ) 
Dhataa Bhutsa rangla thobpai Moelom shhugye!
Ngoen Jaa Druk Boe gi Tsonglam Tashi Delek!
Jaa-Druk-Jaana thuenlam nyamrup-
dranym zoyie  Moenlam shhugye !
Jaana Jaagar Thuendrel jinlap
Druk Palden Densa gnuelju shhugye! 

Thuji zee! Thuji Zee! Mewang Nga dhang
Khesar Gyalpo Wangchuck  Chhog !
Druk Gyal Khap rang gi Wangtse Wang!
Druk Mitser Saachha sokchog zey!
Jaagar Wangtse Jaalu zim!
Gyalju Tendrel Zangpoi Moelam Shhog !
Palden ChhoChang Kencho Sum!
Chhab- Su- Chhey! Chab- Su- Chhey!

P.S. Please join me in  recitation, if you will, this national prayers. Dzongkha lettering  welcome.