The Valley of Haa.

Haa is blessed as so connoted by the name itself. There is the huge towering Tsebarme mountain range rising from Korey hill at Haa Tserphel under Eusu geog and finally sinking  at Bji geog  where the geog office is located. If you happen to view the Tsebarme mountain range from the summit of Chelela, you would be  awe struck. The range itself has many folds. What I have described above is the inner most fold facing the Haa river. The outer most range  perhaps runs from north international border of Sino-Bhutan to India crossing the tri-junction at Doklam. And within the holds of this inner fold  of Tsebarme range are the three pyramid shaped  hills of Risum Goenpos ' Jampelyang, Chenrenzi and Chhana Dorji  and land mark spiritual centres of  Jangphu Gompa, Sheykar Dra, Taakchu Gompa, Drana Gompa. And ofcourse the twin black and white  temples of Lhakhang Nagpo and Karpo.

Haa Lhakhang Karpo though publicly  known as Ap Chhundu Densa, the main auspicious spiritual aura is the statue of Tsebarme. If a Bhutanese visit Lhakhang Karpo, it would most probably be  to pray to Ap Chhundu the famous Deity of Haa. And if you happen to seek guidance in the future through dice prediction, the number 7 is the most sought out. However, you should be overjoyed if the number happens to be 10. You have guardian Tsebarme and Risum Goenpos looking after your affairs.  Then about 700 metres above Lhakhang Karpo, is the Lhakhang Nagpo built on a hidden lake. The Deity is Dra-dho-chen and main spiritual statue is Jho. There is also the Tsomin of the hidden lake.  But the central spirituality  of Lhakhang Nagpo is the Goenkhang. Thus the forbidding grey colour of the Temple. In here those who are knowledgeable of the essence, come to pray to Pel Yeshey Goenpo and Palden Lhamo. And if you are granted the dice number 9, your troubles are over and path cleared of all obstacles. Lhakhang Karpo did not have a GoenKhang because it is at the twin Lhakhang Nagpo. Since the renovation of Lhakhang Karpo, I have noticed a small window size chamber for GoenKhang.  In my view, an unnecessary duplication that separates rather than compliments the spiritual oneness of the Twin black and white Temples. Thimphu Changangkha has a real duplication of Lhakhang Karpo and Nagpo. The structures are separate but at the same place. The grey temple houses the Goenkhang and the larger white structure houses the Chhathong Chenthong with other Buddhism guardians and local deity. 

There are different stories surrounding the
black and white twin temples of Haa. At one time in recent Bhutan, some officials for whatever reasons tried to bring forward the the establishment years of the black and white twin temples. Now there is a trend of dating them to the times of King Sortsen Goenpo at par with Paro Kichu Lhakhang and Jamba Lhakhang in Bumthang. It is possible that statues of Tsebarme and Jho were installed during Sortsen Goenpo time possibly after enlarging the existing  structures. However, both Ap Chhundu and Dra-dho-chen are Bon Deities and predates Buddhism in Bhutan and Tibet. So it is quite clear that the location of spiritual establishment at the sites of present twin temples were much before Kichu and Jamba temples. 

The main original abode of Ap Chhundu is the Mount Chhundu Gang in the extreme north of Haa Valley near the international borders of Bhutan and China. Ap Chhundu was born in Tibet. At one time many Tibetans made annual visit to Haa to make offering and seek protection from Ap Chhundu. Today only people from Paro come to pay their annual respects.The legend of Ap Chhundu is preserved in the ballad cum dance known as Chhundu Gongshey once  performed by Khendums and passed down ages is still enacted by ladies dressed as Khendums. There is also the much revered Ap Chhundu temple known as GyeChhu Lhakhang under Bji geog.  Then again under Bji geog, at the extreme headof Talung Village Valley the base of which is Jangkakha plateau lies the original abode of Dra-dho-chen and his consort Tsomin. The huge dark cliff that towers over the landscape rises from the half hidden and half visible lake.

Guru Rinpoche is supposed to have visited Haa. Juney Dra, Sheyka Dra and the famous cave nye under Sombay geog are attributed to Guru visits.  Juney Dra temple has one footprint of Khendro Yeshey Tsogyel whilst the print of the other foot is at Paro Taktsang.  

On the opposite side of Risum pyramid hills are the three magical high ridges that branch out into Haa valley from the high mountain range that divide the valleys of Paro and Haa. And  in between their folds the two villages of Wangtsa and Katsho are nestled. The northern ridge known as Drachen Gang drops down to the bridge above Haa town. I rever it as the abode of Chhoe Gyalpo the Lord of Death. At the rocky base is the huge natural image of Chhoe Gyalpo. The real one whose mask image bless you at every Tsechu festivals.  Then in the centre dropping down to Sinchu- pang directly in front of Haa town and Ugyen Dorji School is Dra Gang the rocky hill. I rever it as the abode of Tandin the ferocious form of Chenrezi. It is quite easy to distinguish the horse head shape. Next is the Tok- Kha ridge. Legend had it that the summit  of this ridge is shaped in the form of mystical snow lion the Singye Karm. The Singye Karm faces the DumChho village on the other side of the river. And in that village there is said to be the rock bowl the container of milk offering to the mystical snow lion. Singye Karm is the ride of Namsey and Tserim. My beloved birth village Wangtsa is in between the Dragang the rocky hill Tandin shape and Tok Kha ridge of Namsey Tserim Singye Karm. If so blessed comprehensively, I should live long and wisely contended. Each of us have our own little dreams that guide our individual life. Such is mine.

Haa has many lakes especially in the high mountains of the north. But most famous is Nob Tsona Patra towards the south. So many legends of Nob Lang, golden pillar, the priceless cymbal and Terton Lama and beautiful  khendum from Tendu Thang who took refuge at another lake Tselung Tsokha from our very own Ap Wang Drugyel alike Ap Luni Tshering Dorji. In addition there are prophesied hidden lakes as in black and white lakes in the form of locations of Katsho village and Naktso village under Katsho geog. There are no  lakes as such visible to the naked eye. But the abundance of water in these two villages stand testimony to existence of hidden lakes within the towering hills. 

The legend of lakes Katsho and Naktso  originates with the Sinchu-Pang seasonal stream at Lhayulkha ( paradise ) village now major part of Haa township. The water of Sinchu chu is warm in Winter and cold in Summer. And the stream dries up for about 4 months beginning Spring season. Legend has it that the stream Tsomin goes to Paro to receive blessings from Paro Guru Thongdrel. This stream is said to be the same seasonal brook above Taaju village in Paro that appears during the Spring season. I have not been able to check physically the occurrence at Paro. But I am familar with the natural behaviour of Sinchu chu in Haa. Legend has it that   a golden and a silver colour birds were supposed to have flown from the huge poplar tree popularly known as Sinchu Kashi  at the Sinchu chu source. Where the gold colour bird nested a white lake was formed and where the silver colour bird nested a black lake was formed.

When people of Haa say prayers for Haa, they often recite the main Valley shape as from north Gyechukha to south Dhorithasa. However, Haa jurisdiction once stretched from Sino- Bhutan border in the north till south the Samtse Dzongkhag on the Indo- Bhutan border.  During Shabdrung time in Bhutan, Haa and Jabana known as Haa Jabana where Ap Chhundu archery range is located  were not under Shabdrung rule. Thats why Ap Chhundu the main Deity of Haa was not included in the offerings that  the Central Monk Body regularly made to other Deities. The Bon Lamas exercised administrative power over Haa and Haa Jabana. Later in history, today's Dzongkhags of Haa, Paro, Chukha and Samtse were under Paro Penlop after the period of Shabdrung rule. The change  probably took place during the time of the all powerful Penlop Haap  who was the Paro Penlop from Haa.  After the establishment of Wangchuck dynasty, the administrative jurisdiction of Haa was granted to the Family of hon'ble  Kazi Ugyen Dorji who also looked after the administration of the whole of Southern Belt of Bhutan. Traditionally, Haa provided the vital trade route for Bhutanese traders with  India and Tibet. Today Haa remains cut off from Tibet and denied the commercial prominence as the main trade route to both India and China Tibet. In addition to being a trade route, Haa also was the centre of modern education in Bhutan. All that were in the past.

Yet everything  is not lost. In the last 25 years or so, the people of Haa has been blessed by the spiritual powers and benevolence of His Holiness the 70th Je Khenpo. The Chhundu Tsokpa had built a solid bridge of love, affection and reverence between His Holiness and all ages of Haa people. And with blessings of Haa ChhoeChangs and Deities, His Holiness began the 1st Moelom Chhenmo at Haa. Since then, all 20 Dzongkhags have introduced the annual Moenlom Chhenmo. Thus the traditional central role of trade, commerce and education have been replaced by pivotal spiritual and cultural role.   May the fortune of Haa flourish and may His Holiness Je khenpo Trulku Jigme Choedra enjoy long life and good health.

For the people of Haa, I have this simple message. Haa has always looked after herself and have selflessly stood up for our beloved Druk Yul. We have played our immense contributory roles in the shaping of the Dratsang and the national civil administration over several centuries. Haa respects the dual system. In my lifetime, three Wangchuck Kings have thanked the people of Haa for our unwavering loyalties to the King, Druk Yul and Bhutanese society. We also have a inborn natural instinct to preserve the identity of Haa.

There is a very strong presence of Indian Army in Haa and the physical heart  of Haa Valley land lies under IMTRAT establishment. But our spirit is free and powerful. The sovereign dignity of Haa Valley is indispensable part of the sovereign dignity of Druk Yul. This is the reason why Haa must remain free and courageous despite overehelming pressure of occupation often facilitated by Royal Bhutan Army which actually should be defending the right of Haa Valley and help  people to stand free of foreign army yoke. The Royal Bhutan Army ( RBA )  has been hogging up territorities that once were recreational  and grazing areas  of local communities lying in the periphery of Haa Wangchuck Lo- Dzong that houses Imtrat Head Quarter. And then surrendering the same for Indian Army use and control. Thus Royal Bhutan Army has become the conduit for silent takeover in Haa by Indian Army. This trend has got to stop.

I observed a physical change at Imtrat establishment at Haa on the eve of 2017 National Day celebration. It was a pleasant surprise last year at the time of National Day when I saw HM portrait inplace of that huge Imtrat Army Training poster.   For me the sight of  the HM portrait transformed the whole outlook of what was the superior dominant Indian colony into  a foreign settlement but still subject to the Laws of the Kingdom of Bhutan.

I thought the Indian Army had put up the King's portrait to show reverence for the sovereign dignity of their host nation. But it was not so. The Haa Dzongdag with credible foresight and wisdom had tactfully got it done. I thank him for his sincerity and intent. This royal portrait which  Dasho Dzongdag Kinzang Dorji had the wisdom and tact to install at the entrance to Imtrat establishment somehow dominates over what was absolutely a distinct Indian Army domain  in the heart of Haa Valley. The civil administration in Haa endeavours to preserve the dominance of Haaps over the Valley of Haa. However, such well intented objectives can be easily washed away if more territiories in Haa are engulfed by the Indian Army in the name of Royal Bhutan Army. I hope the love and dedication  of His Majesty the King for Haa and her people will  prevent further encroachment and in fact gradually reduce such foreign presence.

By the grace of our Deities, the benevolence of the King, the prayers of His Holiness Je Khenpo Trulku Jigme Choedra  and by our own inspirations of birth, may the Valley of Haa and the Haaps enjoy peace and prosperity in happiness and in solidarity. May Risum Goenpos prevail under the graceful watch of Goen Tsebarme.